From: Dail Reid To: Subject: [GardeningBytes] Issue 109 Date: Wednesday, May 02, 2001 9:07 AM *********************************************** GARDENINGBYTES NEWSLETTER The 109th Issue *********************************************** Seems like such a short while ago we were wearing heavy coats and wishing for Spring. Now it's here, and there's no shyness with the heat. Mother's Day is recognized around the country as one of the biggest garden center shopping weekends in the season. May is a wonderful time to find new plants and shrubs for your garden - remember thou that a great majority of centers carry 'what is in bloom', so if you are looking for an August bloomer be sure to visit garden centers around that time to get a wider selection. *********************************************** Our Gardening Only Community continues to grow!!! Come join in - great chats, great BBs, and of course your great garden!! http://communities.msn.com/GardeningOnly New friends and new garden ideas are blooming daily -and it's a great place to ask all your garden problem questions.. and get great answers!! If you are not already registered at MSN, then first register (they call it getting a Passport). Then proceed to sign in and explore and enjoy the new GardeningOnly community! All the links are there! *********************************************** PrettyFleurs' GARDENING http://pages.prodigy.com/gardenshop/ Featured Articles TENT CATERPILLARS HOSTAS *********************************************** COLOR AND HEIGHT IN YOUR GARDEN Color changes and changes in height are focal points. In a shady green corner, a brightly variegated plant will catch our eye. A flower border of cool blues, silvers, and pinks will pop when a complimentary hot-colored orange is planted within it. An unexpected vertical plant in a border is a great focal point. The "tall in back, short in front" rule of thumb should be occasionally broken in your garden. Many biennials (plants that grow in the first year, bloom the second year, and die) grow from a low-growing basal rosette of foliage. Their flowers are usually vertical, like Verbascum, that will send a flower spike soaring to heights of three to four feet. Biennials can be used effectively as front of the border focal points, because they do not overshadow plants placed behind them. Use these natural focal points wisely, as too many changes can be confusing. *********************************************** VEGETABLE GARDENS FOR SMALL SPACES Urban living doesn't have to put a damper on your green thumb. Apartment dwellers and city homeowners alike can get more out of their tiny garden spaces by employing several intensive gardening techniques. Conventional vegetable gardening would have you planting in neat rows, each about three feet apart. This was popular because the rows could be weeded by tiller or farm tractor, and even harvested mechanically. But think about all the unused space! Small garden owners can use all the space they can scrounge up. Intensive gardening, which employs space-saving techniques such as wide-row planting, raised beds, succession planting, and vertical training, is the answer. *********************************************** WIDE-ROW PLANTING Wide-row planting is just what it sounds like. Instead of a single row of plants, veggies are planted together in wide rows (three to four feet across), spaced so that they will just touch at their mature sizes. A narrow pathway between rows allows access to plants, but doesn't gobble up space. Based on your personal size, plan a walkway that is comfortable for you. Weeds are reduced when plants are grown more closely together, but getting at weeds between plants may be more difficult. Some vegetables that suffer from fungal leaf diseases, such as tomatoes, are probably better off not planted intensively. They need excellent air circulation to keep leaves dry. *********************************************** RAISED BED GARDENS Raised beds improve yields of veggies by providing plants with great soil for maximum root development. There are many books available on raised bed gardening, with how-to's on constructing the beds. Just a cautionary note - do not use treated timbers/lumber forraised vegetable or herb gardens. Landscape timbers are treated with a compound called CCA - copper chromated arsenate - a highly toxic arsenic-based chemical. Yes, there are studies out there that measure how much of the CCA actually leaches from the timbers into sur- rounding soil. Untreated woods like cedar or redwood (expensive) are long lasting and fairly rot-resistant. Pine is less expensive, and in most climates will last four years before needing replacement. Getting back to raised gardens, a three- to four- foot-wide area (you choose the length) is best for access to the interior of the bed. Loosen your soil using a garden fork to a depth of about 12 inches. Add organic matter in the form of compost or composted cow manure. How much to add? At least two inches of organic matter over the raised bed area. Calculate the area of your raised bed (length times width equals the square feet) and multiply that by 0.166 ft. This will give you an amount of cubic feet that you can refer to on different product labels. Once your raised bed structure is built, and the soil loosened and amended, you never need disturb or compact the soil again. Your raised bed will have excellent drainage, and plants will not rot in springtime rains. Raised beds will need more water during summer heat and drought, so keep that in mind. For more on Raised Bed Gardening see http://pages.prodigy.com/gardenshop/flwr20.htm *********************************************** SUCCESSION PLANTING When succession planting, another seed or transplant takes the place of a recently harvested plant, filling the empty spot. This reduces weed penetration, and also keeps every little garden area productive. For example, when you harvest lettuce plants in early summer, you can replace them with Swiss chard, summer squash, carrots, etc. Or after picking an early sweet corn crop, you may want to follow with a fall crop of broccoli, spinach, or snow peas. *********************************************** VERTICAL PLANTING Vining crops like squash and melons, peas, and even tomatoes can be vertically trained in various ways. Trellises, wires, or string on south-facing fences, wire cages, obelisks, and tuteurs are all acceptable ways of vertically training your vegetables. When growing up a structure, plants stay cleaner (less disease), drier (less disease), generally have more sunlight, and save our backs a little grief when harvesting. Plus they take up a fraction of the space they would have, if allowed to sprawl. *********************************************** HEALTH ON THE NET Here are some health sites that may be of importance to everyone from time to time. I hope not but you never know.. Alzheimers Association - www.alz.org American Cancer Society - www.cancer.org American Diabetes Associations - www.diabetes.org AMA - Health & Fitness - www.justmove.org American Heart Association - www.amhrt.org American Lung Association - www.lungusa.org American Medical Association - www.ama-assn.org Arthritis Foundation - www.arthritis.org Ask the dietitian - www.dietitian.com Asthma & Allergy Foundation - www.aafa.org Cancer Information Service - www.nci.nih.gov Centers for Disease Control - www.cdc.gov Elder Care Locator - www.aoa.dhhs.gov Health A to Z Search Engine - www.healthatoz.com National Cancer Institute - www.nci.nih.org National Council on Aging - www.ncoa.org National Health Information Center - nhic-nt.health.org National Osteoporosis Foundation - www.nof.org National Safety Council - www.nsc.org National Stroke Association - www.stroke.org Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation - www.breastcancerinfo.com The American Dietetic Association - www.eatright.org US Food and Drug Administration - www.fda.gov US National Institute of Health - www.nih.gov World Health Organization - www.who.int *********************************************** WALNUTS AND JUGLONE Walnuts are handsome trees, but their roots release a chemical, juglone, that is toxic to many plants growing in their extensive root zone. Azaleas, rhododendrons and mountain laurels (popular shade shrubs) are among the plants most sensitive to juglone - tomatoes and other vegetable crops also succumb. The black walnut tree is the most common example of a plant that is toxic to other plants. They produce a chemical called "juglone", which occurs especially in the buds, nut hulls, and roots, but can be found in all parts of the tree. Very senstive plants have symptoms such as foliar yellowing, whilting, and even death. Unless you know of this toxicity you might blame these symptoms on some form of disease. Once the plants are affected, sorry to say, there is no cure... Plants can vary in their sensitivity. Plants commonly grown in the Midwest that have this problem are tomatoes, cabbage, apples, peonies, alfalfa, and somem kinds of pine, spruce, and maple. There are other plants that do quite well growing next to juglone and they are beans, corn, cherries, hawthorns, viburnums, poison ivy, and soybeans. Keep in mind that the roots go beyond the drip line and even if you cut the black walnut down the roots can remain active for several years. Raised beds would be a good alternative for those sensitive plants as long as no leaves, nuts, or twigs mingle. Recent research suggests that the more you can improve your soil with organic material, the less juglone toxicity is going to appear. Compost improves soil aeration and decreases the density of the soil. Bacteria breaks down the juglone, and thrives in porous soils. As for a suggested list of juglone-tolerant plants, here are some annuals, some perennials, some bulbs and some vines. Annuals: Begonias, Calendulas, Morning glories, Horned violets, Pansies Perennials: Ajuga, Astilbe, Monarda, Campanula, Bloodroot, Chrysanthemum, Cinnamon fern, Coral bells, Cranesbill, Crested wood fern, Daylily, European wild ginger, Hollyhock, Hosta, Jacob's ladder, Lamb's ears, Leopard's bane, Pulmonaria, Phlox paniculata, Primrose, Siberian iris, Solomon's seal, Spiderwort, Stonecrop, Oenothera, Sweet woodruff, Trillium, Violet Bulbs: Crocus, Daffodil, Glory-of-the-snow, Grape hyacinth, Hyacinth, Snowdrop (Galanthus), Spanish bluebell, Squill, Tulip, Winter aconite Vines: Clematis, Honeysuckle, Virginia creeper *********************************************** KEYBOARD SHORTCUTS...so we can get into the garden sooner! Keyboard shortcuts are built into Windows and Macintosh software by the developers to activate the commands or functions of the programs. Shortcuts are intended to be a faster, more convenient alternative to a mouse. Once you get used to them, they can be much faster than scrolling and clicking with the mouse. Please remember that shortcuts may be different based on your system. General Windows Shortcuts Some common editing shortcuts for use with Windows: Undo = CTRL+Z Redo = CTRL+Y Select All = CTRL+A Cut = Select Text then CTRL+X Copy = Select Text then CTRL+C Paste = Select Text then CTRL+ V Print = CTRL+P Save = CTRL+S Microsoft Word Shortcuts Some helpful formatting shortcuts to use with Microsoft Word: Thesaurus = Select Text then press Shift+F7 Increase font size = CTRL+Shift+> Decrease font size = CTRL+Shift+< Single line spacing = Select Text then CTRL+1 Double line spacing = Select Text then CTRL +2 One-and-a-half line spacing = Select Text then CTRL+5 Internet Explorer Shortcuts Explorer: Refresh = F5 Close current window = CTRL+W Find a word or phrase on a Web page = CTRL+F Move cursor to address bar = ALT+D Switch to full screen mode and back = F11 Netscape Navigator Shortcuts Some shortcuts to use within documents when using Netscape Navigator: Open a document = CTRL+O Refresh = CTRL+R Stop loading a document = ESC Increase font size = CTRL+] Decrease font size = CTRL+[ *********************************************** MOSS PROBLEMS IN THE LAWN Bruce Spangenberg University of Illinois Extension Moss invading lawns is a common problem. Moss thriving in lawns signals that grass is weak and has thinned for some reason, allowing the moss to take over. There are many potential causes, including excessive shade, compacted soils, poorly drained soils, low soil fertility, high or low soil pH, and poor air circulation. Poor lawn care practices are another source of moss problems. General lack of care, including irregular mowing and little or no fertilizer applications are common problems leading to poor turf growth. Adding limestone is a common "remedy" mentioned for moss control, but is not suggested unless a soil test has shown the pH needs to be raised. Many soils in northern Illinois have high pH values; adding limestone will make this pH go even higher, adding to the lawn's problem. Ferrous ammonium sulfate or ferric sulfate (iron sulfate) can be used to control moss to some extent. The moss will temporarily burn away, but tends to return fairly quickly. Raking out moss is another option; usually followed by reseeding. Modifying site conditions to favor lawn grasses and discourage moss is a suggested way to manage the problem. Too much shade for acceptable grass growth is a common underlying cause for moss invasion. Pruning trees and shrubs to improve air circulation and light penetration is a good starting point. Evaluate the site to make sure the proper grass for the conditions is being used. Take a good look at the soil conditions. A soil test can be helpful, as it could be the soil pH is out of line, contributing to the problem. Reduce soil compaction by core aerifying. This may also help correct drainage problems; although serious drainage problems may require more extensive work to correct. Evaluate lawn care procedures, especially fertilizing. Lawns need adequate fertilization, in particular nitrogen. Established lawns in shady areas need less nitrogen than in full sun. About 1 to 2 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per season is all that is needed in shade, compared to 2 to 4 pounds in full sun. Also be sure additional lawn care practices are sound. Excessively short mowing may be a source of the moss problem; a range of 2 1/2 to 3 inches is ideal for most lawn grasses. Mow on a regular basis (based on rate of lawn growth) to avoid removing more than one-third of the leaf blade. Also avoid excessive watering, as this may also contribute to moss problems. Water deeply and as infrequently as possible, based on lawn needs. *********************************************** ON THE OTHER HAND, MOSS GARDENING Evelyn Bennett, hgtv.com According to Paul James, host of HGTV's Gardening by the Yard, a patch of moss growing in your lawn is an indicator of one or more of the following: your lawn needs fertilization the area has poor drainage the soil is too acidic to support turf grasses. If you don't want the moss, you have to fertilize, aerate and adjust the pH of your lawn. (Another option is to use a mossicide; however,it is recommended you get to the root of the problem rather than simply killing the moss and hoping it doesn't return - it probably will.) But wait! Before you get out the fertilizer and soil amendments, consider starting a moss garden. Moss gardens are fairly easy to grow, unusual to look at and have become increasingly popular in recent years. To start a moss garden, you need three things: a shady spot beneath a tree or roof overhang some starter moss stale beer or buttermilk or yogurt Once you've established a good location for your moss garden, clear the area of debris with a hand-held rake and loosen the surface of the soil. Next, carefully remove every single weed from the cleared area. This is a crucial step because weeds can rob moss of essential moisture and nutrients. Do not use an herbicide for this step; it will kill the moss that you plant. Using a trowel, carefully dig up some existing moss from a spot in your yard or neighboring woods. Do note that moss that grows on the ground does not grow on trees/rocks, moss that grows on the trees does not grow on the ground or on rocks, and moss that grows on rocks doesn't grow on the other two. Leave some soil attached to the moss pieces. In an old blender, combine a heaping handful of moss and a cup or two of stale beer and/or buttermilk or yogurt; liquefy for 30 seconds. You can prep rocks/clay pots with vinegar. You can use egg whites on them to help the recipe stick; you can use cheese cloth to help keep the recipe in place. Pour a thin layer of the moss mixture over your prepared soil until you have covered every square inch. Mist your moss garden several times a day for up to a week, or until the moss begins to grow on its own. Within a couple of weeks you should see the first signs of moss beginning to grow. To keep the garden healthy, weed it regularly, keep it free of debris and mist it once a week with buttermilk or stale beer. *********************************************** To control weeds between rocks or stones along your path or walkway try using boiling water. Just pour the hot water on the weeds. You may have to do this an additional time or so during the season but it beats using chemicals. *********************************************** IRIS BORERS University of Kansas Extension Overwintering eggs hatch in April and young larvae start to cause damage in May and June after bloom. Look for small pinholes in leaves or young leaves notched or with ragged edges. In June to July, the larvae continue to feed inside the leaves but begin to move toward the base of the plant resulting in a slimy appearance near ground level. Small piles of sawdust (frass) may appear near the base of the iris in July to August. This is also the time that the rhizomes are hollowed out by the maturing larvae. Larvae are about half-grown (1/2 to 3/4 inch long) when they first enter the rhizomes. Mature larvae are have whitish to pinkish bodies with dark brown heads and are about 2 inches long. Pupation starts in August and adults emerge in September and October. The pupal stage normally lasts two to three weeks with the pupa found about 2 inches deep in the soil. The adults are seldom seen because they are nocturnal. Eggs are laid on brown, dried leaves. Damage by the iris borer is often associated with a disease known as bacterial rot. Wounded rhizomes are easily attacked by this bacterium which results in a foul-smelling decay of the rhizomes. Recommendations: Removal and burning of dead leaves in the fall will eliminate a number of the iris borer eggs. Larvae can also be killed by hand in June bye squeezing infested leaves in the vicinity of the injury. During division, rotted and heavily infested rhizomes should be discarded. Borers in lightly infested rhizomes can be killed by poking them with a piece of wire. *********************************************** Issue 109 05.01.2001 C) 2001 Garden Artist Inc. the Gardens are Growing at http://pages.prodigy.com/gardenshop Dail Reid Gardening Editor